The 13 desserts of Christmas: a tradition of Provence

The origin of this gourmet tradition

Of the oldest Provençal Christmas traditions, the presentation of the thirteen desserts is certainly the one that is most celebrated in families in Provence today! They are placed on the 3 tablecloths, in the middle of the 3 candles or the 3 candlesticks, and the 3 cups of wheat of the Sainte-Barbe (symbol of the Trinity, the 4th of December represents the day of the Sainte-Barbe's feast; many families sow the wheat in 3 these small cups. Today, the tradition continues and promises prosperity for the family if the wheat is large and strong for Christmas), the thirteen desserts represent the number of guests at the Last Supper, the meal of Christ and the twelve apostles.
This tradition is not formally dated in time, but it seems to date back to the 17th century. At that time, it was customary to serve an abundance of desserts to show the guests that one had enough to get through a difficult winter. This tradition owes its importance today in particular to the félibres, Frédéric Mistral in the lead, who looked into the ceremonies of the traditional Provençal Christmas in the 19th century. This period gave a second wind to this tradition, and the number of desserts was adopted a few years later, in the 1920s. Today, in Provence, one cannot conceive a Christmas Eve without the 13 desserts on the table!
The thirteen Provençal desserts are served after the Gros Souper Provençal, which is composed of 7 lean dishes, while waiting to go to midnight mass. From one region to another, the composition of the thirteen desserts varies.

The 13 Provençal desserts

Here is the list and some explanations about their presence on the table:

The oil pump

First of all, let's start with the oil pump. A true Provencal tradition, it must be presented broken, as Jesus did with the bread, and not cut with a knife. Traditionally, the pompe à huile is a kind of brioche made of flour, olive oil, sugar and it is perfumed with orange blossom.

The four beggars

Around the oil pump, the representation of the 4 religious orders having made vows of poverty, the 4 beggars:
- the walnuts or hazelnuts represent the order of the Augustinians,
- the almonds for the Carmelites,
- the dried figs, the Franciscan order,
- the raisins symbolize the order of the Dominicans.

The black nougat and the white nougat

They represent the black penitents and the white penitents.
Almonds, honey, sugar, it can be white if it contains egg whites, or black if it does not contain any. It can also be flavored. It is sometimes hard, sometimes soft, but it is always sweet like a childhood perfume.

Dates

Symbol of Christ from the East

Seasonal fruits

Such as watermelon, grapes, apples, pears, oranges, quince paste (...).

But also...

As we mentioned, in each city and village of Provence, the platters can be embellished with other delicacies: the shuttle in Marseille, the calisson in Aix-en-Provence or the candied fruit in Apt, the gibassier, chocolate...

These desserts will remain on the table for 3 days, and the guests must taste them all! The thirteen desserts are accompanied by cooked wine in reference to the wine of Christ. Now you know more about this important tradition at this time of year. There's plenty to treat yourself and your guests to this holiday season!